How to Make Pesto Like an Italian Goddess
By Linda Tom
Already make pesto in a food processor? Good for you. Then again you might be one of the few who actually pound their pastes with a mortar and pestle. But for those who aspire to the status of kitchen god(dess), here’s one trick that’ll catapult your next batch of pesto on to the next level – simply use hand-chopped ingredients.
If hand-chopped pesto sounds like heresy, I actually discovered this tip online – from an Italian grandmother who lives in the pesto epicentre of Genoa, no less. As opposed to the more homogenized blend you get when making pesto with a mortar and pestle, hand chopping ensures a highly texturized sauce with separation between the ingredients and bright pops of flavor. This doesn’t mean that pesto prepared the traditional way isn’t delicious, but if you’re looking for a fresh slant on pesto, chopping might work for you.
Since I had two packages of basil in my fridge, I decided on a pesto showdown – make one batch by chopping, the other with a mortar and pestle. Which one came out on top? My husband Dom being the purist, preferred smashed vs chopped because it yielded a richer taste and better distribution over the pasta; while I agreed with him on those points, I was really intrigued with the rustic texture and the playful sparks of flavor in the hand-chopped version. In the end, a mix of the two resulted in a heavenly pesto with truck loads of personality!
For those on a budget, you can substitute the pine nuts with macadamias. I’ve also discovered that Giant is a great place to buy fresh basil ($1.90 for 75g). Also keep an eye out for deals on the best extra virgin olive oil you can afford. If there’s one item in this recipe that you mustn’t scrimp on, that would be the cheese – don’t settle for anything less than freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano and Pecorino Romano – a little goes a long way so none of that pre-grated stuff in a bag, please!
LINGUINE WITH PESTO
3 cloves garlic, sliced
2 cups loosely packed fresh basil leaves
1 large handful toasted pine nuts (or macadamias)
2/3 cup freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano and Pecorino Romano, mixed
1/2 tsp coarse salt
Whole black peppercorns
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
Linguine for 4
1. Set aside about 1/3 of the sliced garlic, basil leaves, pine nuts and grated cheese mix. This will be used later for the hand-chopped pesto.
2. With the remaining ingredients: Roughly chop the basil, set aside. Place the sliced garlic, salt and a few black pepper corns into a mortar and pestle. Begin to pound with the pestle, adding a small handful of basil and a tablespoon or so of olive oil. Gradually add more basil, oil and some pine nuts. Continue pounding until all the basil and pine nuts are in the mortar. At this point only half of the oil should have been used. When this mixture has been worked into a smooth paste, stir in the grated cheeses and the remaining oil. Cover and set aside,
3. With the reserved ingredients: Chop the garlic and a few of the basil leaves. When this is loosely chopped, add the rest of the basil leaves and continue chopping into a fine mince. Gradually add the pine nuts. All the while, you’ll be scraping, gathering and chopping. When the pine nuts are almost done, start adding the grated cheese, chop some more. In the end, you want a chop so fine, it can be compressed into a solid “cake” (see pic). You should also see a wide spectrum of cuts which will contribute to the overall taste and texture of the paste.
4. Stir the hand-chopped pesto into the pounded pesto. Taste and adjust for salt, add more olive oil if needed. Cover until ready to serve.
5. Prepare the linguine. Right before serving add a splash of boiling pasta water to pesto. Stir to loosen and blend. Ladle pesto on to the hot pasta, toss well to coat. Top with additional pine nuts, grated cheese and a drizzle of olive oil. Remember that pesto is at its peak the day it is made. Sauce will keep in the fridge for a few days. Serves 4.
